Things to consider:

 

• Is the Elemck Spyder a complete unit?

 

• Does the column go up and down, and is it spurting oil from the column seals? Beware it can go a long way?

 

• If you can’t get oil pressure, is the release valve engaged?

 

• Is there enough oil in the system?

 

• Check the oil level by dipping the sump with the column down and hydraulic release valve open. Check the black or red topped oil sump cap, which should have a dip stick inside.

 

• Will the column sections each rise fully with the locks off, or do they stick? Sticking or incomplete extension may indicate column corrosion, assuming that you have already checked the oil levels. The most common corrosion occurs when columns are left sitting in the wet or damp in the up or down position, and occasionally locked partly raised. Columns can be re-chromed or nickel plated and ground to tolerance, more on that later.

 

• Do the Column brakes engage and disengage fully? They are adjustable unless they are exceptionally worn or missing teeth.

 

• Is there any evidence of excessive oil residue around the base of the foot-pump? Trace amounts are acceptable.

 

• Do the legs select in all positions?

 

• Are you able to select between 2-wheel and 4-wheel steering? Note you must rotate the steering from the non-selectable wheels to locate the correct position in order to switch positions on the selector lever.

 

• If the dolly is functioning, is there any bounce if you apply pressure to the top of the column while up and with the locks off? The ability to compress or bounce the arm is a sign of air in the system, or low oil.

 

• If any leaks are identified, try to establish what oil the Dolly has been maintained with. Hydraulic oils that are too viscous will result in spectacular spurting leaks of many feet. Brake Fluid is too viscous and is also hygroscopic (it absorbs moisture), and has been identified as contributing to column corrosion in a number of units I have encountered. Brake fluid is also an irritant and burns the skin, and you don’t want it to spurt out into someone’s eye. The Hydraulic Oil page has the relevant data sheets here...

 

• Corroded Columns can be re-chromed and honed, but this is expensive. Unless excessive, a more cost-effective alternative is to strip, polish and nickel plate the column sections, and this has worked for me in the past, though you will need to work with your plater on tolerances and to protect the threads.

 

• Leg Castings – Inspect for broken or cracked leg castings. They most often break where the lifting handle connects to the positionable leg casting. the Casting that holds the leg may also sometimes deform or break if the dolly has been dropped. Generally, I machine and insert a repair block in the leg casting; and the casting that holds the leg can be welded if care is taken to correctly align the parts.

 

• Studio and Track wheels – the most vulnerable element here is the rubber. If in a poor condition two alternatives exist. Re-moulding which is expensive or sourcing a close alternative. In the case of re-moulds, pay special attention to the inner radius on Combi Wheels; and if sourcing alternatives make sure that you source a wheel with a rubber compound that can take the loads, and be prepared to modify spacings and brake shoes.